Bubbles...Again

After my last posting I had a couple of friends from the wine industry giving me hell. One of my Italian buddies wasn't very happy with the fact that I mentioned Prosecco briefly, and another (who's in the Burgundy business) asked me "dude, how about Cremant"? Get your own blog people!!!

I am only kidding, I take criticism well. Sometimes, just ask my wife. And I tip my hat when somebody corrects me with a valid argument. Cremant should be on everybody's list for the holiday. Made in Burgundy (hence the name Cremant de Bourgogne), it can be either white or rose and it varies from dry to sweet. Most Cremants are made using the traditional method of fermenting the wine in the bottle. There are about 6-7 types of grapes being used, but the only ones worth remembering are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. 
One of the best I've ever had is the Simmonet-Febvre Brut. I have had the chance to drink this amazing wine quite a few times, and quite a few different vintages, and they always put out great product. It is a 60-40 combination of the two grapes mentioned, and I swear you taste both when you have a glass. It is also quite inexpensive, as sparkling (good) wines go, it shouldn't cost you more than $20 in the store.
Pairing? Well, this is where it gets a little tricky. The wines don't need food accompaniment. I kind like to pop one before dinner, with some nosh. Peanuts, maybe some cheeses or outside on the deck just hanging out. It is one of those bottles that should teach you the wine is made to be enjoyed anytime and anywhere, and you should not be afraid of it.
And how about Prosecco? Here is a good (got me drunk quite a few times) cocktail recipe. We've all had a Mojito. Take some limes, mint and sugar muddle together. Than, instead of filling up with rum and club soda, use Prosecco. Fill the glass up, drink, burp, refill. Recipe for good times.
So, hopefully I am now back on the good side of my two criticizing, ball-busting friends. Happy New Year  everybody!

Bubbles

So, New Year's Eve is fast approaching and you just got invited to a party. You want to bring a bottle of Champagne, but you don't want to shell out for a bottle of  DP, but you also don't wanna look cheap and show up with a bottle of Korbel. So what is one to do? And what exactly is Champagne? How do they put bubbles in the bottles?
Champagne is a wine region in northern France, and only wines from this region can be called Champagne. So, that crappy bottle of Chandon that costs about $6 at your local store is not a Champagne. It's just a cheap, disgusting imitation which few people know is actually made by Moet. There are three different grapes used in the production of Champagne, chardonnay, pinot meuniere and pinot noir. This delicious, sparkly drink is made using a method called Methode Champenoise. In a few words, here is what happens: first they squeeze the grapes, they let the juice fermentate.  Then, they blend the combination of the three juices, they bottle them (with a temporary metal cap) and in the course of a few weeks, slowly, they turn the bottles around until they are completely upside down. Why? Because, in the bottles there are sediments. Then, they sort of freeze the head of the bottle, they open the cap, and they let the gas inside the bottle blow the sediments out. Afterwards they cap it with the cork and wire we all know. Voila!!!
The pressure inside a bottle of Champagne is about 3 times higher than in a car tire. And that is why they use those thick, heavy, special shaped bottles. As you can imagine, the price of the actual bottle, combined with the price of producing the wine  is very high. So, when the price of a bottle of "champagne" is $6, should raise some eye brows.

One of my favorite Champagne I've ever had is Louis de Sacy. It is a medium body Grand Cru, with great fruity after tones. It is not expensive (as Champagne goes), should not run you more than 50 bucks or so. They also have a rose version, which when drank at the right temperature should remind you of the best date you have ever been on.
There are other, much less expensive options out there. The two most important ones are Cava and Prosecco. Not many years ago, these wines were impossible to find, most restaurants didn't carry them and most stores thought you were crazy if you asked about them. Now, they even have restaurants named after them, the Oak Room makes a Prosecco cocktail, and most stuck up sommeliers offer at least 10-15 of them.
Pairing? Never with desserts or cheeses. White fish, like a great, grilled piece of halibut, salt, pepper, nothing else. Or, if you have it, roasted pheasant. I have only had it once and my mouth still waters thinking about it.
And please! DO NOT stick a strawberry in your glass. Do that with Korbel, it won't matter what it tastes like.

Bordeaux Whites&Sauternes

When somebody mentions the word Bordeaux, most of us automatically think red wine. But there is more in the region than Merlot and Cabernet. Or is there?
I know people up in New York, that when reading the above sentence, will get mad, text me and curse me in French. The funny part about it is that I won't know why they are mad. Is it because I said there is more to Bordeaux than reds, or because I seem to doubt that. If I manage to ever figure that out, i will be sure and let you guys know.
So, what is a white Bordeaux? I think there should be a couple different categories. First, you have the usual crisp, concentrated wine made with Sauvignon Blanc. Then, and this category should be first since it is frigging awesome, you have Sauternes.
Sauternes is a sweet wine made from a combination of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes. The unique thing about this wine is that the growers actually let the grapes rot on the vines. I am not going to bore you with how the rot happens, climate, fog and such, but I am going to tell you that if you never tried it, you are missing out. Big time.
Since Sauternes is made from shrunken grapes, it is very expensive to produce, and the wines are very expensive. The best, and most expensive is Chateau d'Yquem. They actually hold the record for the most expensive bottle of white wine ever sold, when an 1811 bottle sold for over $110.000.  Dior even  makes a skin cream from the d'Yquem grape skins.

What would you pair this amazing wine with? The best thing I can think of, is a really good chocolate cake, with a chocolate mousse topping and chocolate ganache (always wanted to use that word). There are other Sauternes out there, some of them quite affordable, but if you ever have a chance, especially if somebody else is footing the bill get a glass. You will not regret it.
And how about the rest of white Bordeaux wines? Who cares?
I think I spent enough time in Bordeaux and next week will be talking about Champagne. New Years Eve is fast approaching, damn this year went by fast.

Bordeaux-Right Bank

In one of my past postings, I was telling you about the Bordeaux classification of 1855. A bunch of tipsy french guys in a tavern, drinking wine, blah, blah, blah. Well they must have been a bit drunker than they thought they were, because when everything was said and done, they realized they forgot about the right side of the river. So, they decided to fix that. 99 YEARS LATER!!!
Some people (mostly french of course) think the reason for that was that the hot shots of Bordeaux were on the left side.  But in 1947, Chateau Cheval Blanc made one of the greatest wines of all time. And the big surprise was, that these guys were on the wrong side of the river. This vintage, has been so hard to find in last few decades, that every time a bottle or two surface in some auction house, it creates a frenzy; people bid amounts of money that would feed a medium sized African country for the entire holiday season. Almost always it ends up being purchased by an anonymous Asian buyer bidding on the phone.
The main grape on the right bank is Merlot. Most wines are blended with Cabernet Franc, the exception being Cheval Blanc which is all Cabernet Franc. The two main appellations are St. Emillion and Pomerol, and if you ask me they are two of the best. I have never been the biggest Merlot fan ever, but put a good bottle of St. Emillion in front of me and watch out. The wines are round, rich, less tannic and they have an almost creamy texture as opposed to a lot of other Merlots which to me are drier than they should be. Another great Chateau on this side of the river is Petrus, Chateau that every vintage manages to kill it. I can honestly say, since I did tasted a few of them, this wine is "creme de la creme".
Right side of the river is also home to a lot of micro producers. It seems that every Parisian that made a few bucks (francs or euros), moved here, bought a small parcel of land and started making wine in their garage. Usually in the american garage you find bikes and golf clubs, old furniture and a whole bunch of other junk. The most amazing part is that when you taste a couple of this micro guys, sometimes located right across the street from each other, the wines couldn't be more different. Trust me, a lot of them should be named Chateau  Crapo, but every once in awhile you get lucky and find amazing bottles of wine at ridiculous prices.
One of my favorites has always been Chateau Boutisse. At my last job in New York, I had the chance to taste a few of their vintages, and every single one of them has been awesome. Saint Emillion Grand Cru, it is usually about 70% merlot, with the rest Cab. Fruity, lots of berries,  (the clowns at Wine Spectator call boysenberries and raspberries), it is spicy and delicious.
Pairings? Well, since it will only run you about $24-25 in a store, you got some cash left for dinner. So, buy a chunk of Parmeggiano Reggiano. And while you act all fancy, sip wine and eat cheese, roast a leg of lamb. With some garlic, maybe rosemary and thyme, cook medium rare and enjoy. Then go slap your mamma.

You can not talk about Bordeaux and not discuss whites and Sauternes. So, that's next week.

Bordeaux-Left Bank

So, if after last week's posting you were all confused about Bordeaux, relax, it will NOT get easier. If you scored anywhere close to 1500 on your SATs and you are a member of Mensa then you might make some sense of the craziness. If not, pour yourself a beer, and listen up.
The Left and Right Bank actually refer to the banks of the river Gironde, which flows through Bordeaux. As the two areas have very different soils, the wines are very different. The Left Bank, which is the bigger area, is mostly gravels and the wines tend to be dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon. The more important appellations are Pauillac, Saint Estephe, Saint Julien, Margaux, Medoc and Graves, and some of the big names like Lafite, Latour, Margaux and Mouton are on this side of the river. Some of these guys have been making wine for centuries, but lately they are harder and harder to find. Not, that there is a Black Friday rush for them. For the last few years or so, it seems that the Chinese market, backed by A LOT of cash, has a tendency of swallowing all of them. I don't know when they became such wine aficionados, but they manage to completely change the market.
There is one big thing to remember about Bordeaux. The wines are always blended using Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot, sometimes all of them, sometimes just a couple, but never just one type. Bordeaux wines are about marrying different grapes, and not like California where if you buy a bottle of Cabernet you get a bottle of Cabernet. That is why, sometimes you hear the term in California of Bordeaux blend. They are meant to age, sometimes for decades.
Left bank pairings? The Food Network recommends duck with pan juices, whatever the hell that means. Because of the blending, the wines are very complex and hard to pair with just one item. But since they are Cab dominated, I still think they go with a big, juicy hunk of beef. You don't have to spend crazy cash on the wine, go buy a bottle of Chateau Larose Trintaudon for around $20, sprinkle some salt and pepper on a sirloin and throw it on the grill. Let the meat rest (this will give you some time to keep sipping on the wine), and enjoy. The way these amazing wines are meant to be enjoyed. I think I'm getting hungry.

I finally figured out how to add a pic to the blog, so here it is, a map of Left Bank.
Next week, Right Bank. More confusion.

Bordeaux. Week 1 of madness

Bordeaux wine. Left bank, right bank, phylloxera, Yquem, $5 bottles, $20k bottles, claret, st. emillion, margaux, holy crap how difficult can it get? To us, the regular guys on the street slash wine drinker, really difficult. I have been reading and studying about Bordeaux for over 10 years and I am still just scratching the surface. There is no way to explain the mess that is Bordeaux in one blog posting, so I think I'm gonna dedicate a few posts to it. Plus, we are talking about some of the greatest wines in the world, so trust me, it's worth it.
So, here is what I am gonna do. Today, I am gonna ramble about a general look at the region. Than, I am gonna have a left bank entrance (gonna explain later what this means), a right bank entrance (ditto), definitely a dessert wine, and the last one will be about the greatest wines from Bordeaux.
A high percentage of the juice made in the region is red. Most of the red wine is blended using Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. There is no rule about percentages, everyone is on their own. And since they are French and don't want us to know what is going on, they don't put the blends on the labels. See, French appelations are based on the regions. If you go to your local store and get yourself a bottle of St. Emillion (if you never did, go get one, it's delicious), that means the wine is from the village of St. Emillion. Or if you buy Pomerol it's from Pomerol. You think you get it? You don't get it. Then, you have Chateau appellations. Then, you got regions. Then you talk about Crus, and it starts getting difficult.
What is a Grand Cru? Or a Premier Cru? What is a second label? Or a third? Fourth? Classee? I am gonna try and explain them the easiest I can. In 1855, a bunch of drunk, French wine officials got together and after spending a week in a tavern came up with "Bordeaux Wine Official Classification". Every few years this classification gets updated. In a particular appellation, let's say Pauillac, they decided which particular plot of land best represents the region. In this case Chateau Latour. So this is the first growth. Then, they decided which are second best and called those Premier Cru. And so on. Now, when you think you get it they come up with second labels. See, a Chateau who is a Grand Cru (or first growth), sometimes buys another plot of land, which happens to be right across the street, but since they can't sell that as Grand Cru, they tweak the label a little bit and sell it as a second label. For example Chateau Margaux's second label is Pavillion Rouge du Chateau Margaux. And if they make some money selling it, and believe me they do, they buy another plot of land and make a third label. Sometimes a fourth and a fifth.
Here is an interesting little known fact about Bordeaux. Between 1875 and 1892, Bordeaux vineyards were wiped out by a little, sap-sucking bug called phylloxera. The French bought vine roots known as rootstock from America, and literally all the vines that exist today are a product of the those American roots. How about  that? That fact always cracked me up.
So, maybe this will make Bordeaux a little easier. The wines are some of the best in the world, some of the oldest and with most tradition. They should be enjoyed by every wine lover in the world, but sometimes their price doesn't allow us to. I once had a chance to try a glass of Chateau Petrus 1982. That's it, I can't think of anything to compare that with.
Next week, left bank. Phew

Thanksgiving Day Wines

So, the big day is around the corner, You probably already started planning for it (I know my wife did), the menu is the same every year, so that's easy. You called your cousins, your uncle, your friends, and everybody got the message, they all know what time to come, and what to bring. But, what about the booze?
Traditionally, in the week before Thanksgiving, more wine is sold than any other holiday. All the stores stock up by the front door the stuff they couldn't get rid of through the year, everything is on sale, and every sales person has a different opinion. And you are confused! What do do, what to do...
Because Thanksgiving has such a complex menu, it is really hard to pair the entire meal with one type of wine. And unless you are going to have one of those fancy meals where every dish is paired with a different wine, in a different glass with a different fork next to it, you will not be able to pair it. See, the turkey demands one wine, the buttery mashed potatoes another, the cranberries, forget about it, and the pumpkin pie... Jeez.
The New York Times writes an article about it each and every year. This way Eric Asimov gets to bash another wine producer that nobody ever heard about it. And act like he does. After one of his tastings, he recommends for Thanksgiving dinner a Verdejo, "prized for its subtle fruit and mineral flavors", blah, blah, blah. Man, does that guy likes to hear himself talk.
Here is my suggestion about what to drink. If you read my blog, chances are that you are interested in wine. And if you are interested in wine, you must have some favorites. Go buy those bottles, and don't worry about what you should be drinking. But if you have to have an idea, try a Pinot Noir. Even better get a bottle of red Burgundy. They are very aromatic, great flavors that range from red berries to black cherries (will go great with your turkey) with great tannins but not overwhelming. And make sure to have a bottle of chardonnay handy, just in case that pesky, annoying, cork-dork uncle of yours won't complain about your wine choices.
If I would have my way (and the stores in Big D decide to carry them), I will get a few bottle of Santennay. Or hey! I like Barolo, so that's what we'll be drinking this year. Take that NY Times.
Next week, Bordeaux. Entire libraries have been written about it, so one week only might not do it.

Grappa

Shut the F...ront door!!! Grappa... my all time favorite after dinner drink! Nothing like a big, juicy steak, a glass of cabernet to go with it, but it would not be complete without an espresso afterwards and a good grappa to finish it off. Ahhh.... Grappa.
What is Grappa? Originally made centuries ago in the town of  Bassano del Grappa, where it gets its name, it is made by distilling pomace. Pomace is what it's left after making wine, a by-product. Composed out of grape stems, seeds and skins, it was originally discarded off. Until an Italian genius, figured out that was losing money by throwing it away.
Up until about 30 years ago, Grappa was made from all sorts of different grapes mixed together. The first single grape Grappa that I know of, was distilled by the Nonino distillery using the Picolit grape. The idea was, that Italians wanted to compete with the French and their eau-de-vie.  And man, did they compete!
Today, you can find all sorts of delicious grappas, from barolo to brunello grappas, from apricot flavor to cherry to pears to apples. It is produced in Oregon, California, South Africa, Australia and upstate New York. But even though a lot of these producers are coming out with some amazing Grappas, there is nothing like the original.
Grappa is around 40 to 45 percent alcohol, or 80-90 proof. The genius of making a good grappa, has to do with the distiller. The pomace is slowly heated, and the distiller has to find the perfect temperature. By law, you can not add water to the pomace, so methanol is released, which will kill you. So the distiller releases those vapors. Grappa is usually clear, but lately, producers age some in oak barrels, so you have light yellow to a dark brown Grappas, depending on the barrels used.
Buying grappa is where it gets a little tricky. You can find them anywhere from $10 to over $100 a bottle. Try staying around $50. Since they are so different, find one that you like based on the wine you like. Since, I've already told you I love Barolo, I buy Barolo Grappa. If you are a big Amarone fan, try that. Don't want to bash other producers, but buy Italian. There is way to much good Italian Grappa to waste your hard earned cash on South African Grappa.
Pairing? Friends and family. That's all you need. And you don't have to wait for after dinner. I just finished lunch, i think I'm gonna pour myself one.
Next week, wine for Thanksgiving.

Barolo

As far as I'm concerned, they should change the name of this amazing wine to Liquid Crack. Or Liquido Cracko, whatever it's in Italian. I'm telling you, Italians don't know what they have in these bottles. I get a high every time I drink it, and I don't even have to shoot it up.
What is Barolo? It's made using this amazing little grape called Nebbiolo, grape that is also responsible for Barbaresco, Gattinara, and a whole slew of other amazing wines. Barolo is grown in the region of Piedmonte, particularly around the villages of Barolo (hence the name), and Alba. Never mind that it took a Frenchman named Louis Oudart, to develop the wine as we know it today. Oudart, who was hired by the Marchesa di Barolo, made such an amazing wine, that other producers followed his techniques, leading to the lush, earthy, spicy wine that we drink today. It is one of those rare, amazing wines that taste differently every time you take a sip.
The very first time I visited Italy, I went to Venice, and like every other lost tourist, I went to Piazza Dei Doggi, and sat down at the main cafe in the square. I ordered a $22 glass of red wine from the Romanian waiter(sic), and took a sip. Five  minutes later I found out the wine was Barolo and six minutes later, I decided that spending the rest of my life as a lawyer, is not gonna cut it for me. I moved to NY, became as a sommelier, and have been in the wine business ever since. They say that drug addicts look for that first high every time they shoot. Luckily, I get that high every time I take a sip of this amazing, moderately priced wine (except in Venice). The only difference is that I don't change careers anymore.
Every once in a while, you are gonna see on the labels things like Canubis, Serralunga and so forth. Screw it. Barolo is Barolo, and no matter which village or side of some hill it comes from, it's amazing every time. Don't let it intimidate you, buy the bottle and thank the Frenchman who taught Italians how to make good wine.
Pairing? If you have truffles, have them. If you don't, use truffle butter, truffle salt, truffle honey, truffle soap or truffle liquid detergent. Or anything that has to do with truffles. Or wild mushrooms. A big plate of grilled portobello mushrooms with a little garlic and parsley, a glass of Barolo and you might also change careers. At the very least you will become an addict. See you at Barolo Anonymous.
Next week? Grappa. I promise I won't skip another week.

Washington State Pinot Noir

A couple of weeks ago, I was checking out a website called Washington Wine Report, written by, I believe a guy named Sean Sullivan. According to Sean, there are a few different grapes that thrive in Washington State: Merlot, Riesling, Syrah and  Cabernet Sauvignon. He claims that Pinot Noir is an elusive grape in this state, because of the weather. To make his argument, he quotes one of the dumbest sources I heard of in the wine industry: the movie Sideways. Really Sean?! Really?

I do agree that Sideways changed the wine industry, it changed the way people look at wine, particularly Pinot Noir. For a while after the movie came out, everybody was drinking Pinot, the sales went crazy across the country. I don't agree with Mr. Sullivan when he claims there is no good Pinot coming out of this state. I have tried in the past a few different vintages from Okanogan Estate, you might want to get yourself some Sean. It is really amazing, silky, with one of the longest finishes I ever encountered in a West Coast Pinot. If I'm not mistaken, they even won a couple of medals for their Pinot in San Francisco. Syncline is another one that should make everybody's list.

Oregon does eclipse Washington State when it comes to Pinot Noir, but what fun would wine be if we only drink the stuff that's on every store shelf? As far as I'm concerned, wine should be about discovering new things, training your palate, finding what YOU like best about it, and not what you are told to. Sure, on the road there you are going to drink some bad wine as well, but you will become more comfortable drinking wine, talking about it, and why not? even suggest it. Sometimes you hear a lot of industry insiders, talking about soil and sun exposure, pebbles and God knows what else. Wine, should be fun, from learning about it to drinking it and not about listening to experts that tell you what to and what not to drink.

So Sean, do your homework man. I am sure, I make a lot of mistakes as well, but I will NOT disregard Washington State Pinot Noir.

Pairing? The wines are silky and smooth, with a long finish. They are fruity, but I find they have an almost Cabernet-like finish. I've had grilled pork chops with them, and I also had fresh pasta with porcini mushrooms. Or, pork chops with porcini. Why not?

If you find a bottle in a store, get it. I guarantee you will not regret it.

Next week Barolo. My all time favourite.

Cote Rotie

After visiting Cote Rotie in 1787, Thomas Jefferson wrote: "Good wine is a daily necessity for me". Man, did the future third US president have it right. He traveled all over Europe, learning, tasting, discussing and  buying wine, but Cote Rotie is where he fell in love.

So, what is Cote Rotie? The words, literally mean "roasted slope", because of the multitudes of terraces, vertical slopes and their stone walls. The area, in northern Rhone, produces only red wines made with Syrah grapes. The law also allows up to 20% Viognier, a white grape used because it is very aromatic. Some producers use no Viognier, while others use the full 20% allowed. Hey, they are French, they have to be confusing!

Cote Rotie has two sub-regions, Cote Blonde and Cote Brune (gets even more complicated). The legend has it there were two sisters, one blonde and one brunette, in reality it actually has to do with the color of the soil, the Brune region having a much darker clay, making the wines fuller, containing more tannins and thus, being meant to age longer.

Buying a bottle of Cote Rotie, is where it gets trickier.The wines can range from $30 to $500, and I'm not even talking restaurant prices. Why the difference? Chateau D'Ampuis for example, should cost you anywhere from $26-27 to $35. La Moulinne $320-$350. I once had a chance to taste La Moulinne, and even though, it tasted as awesome as an afternoon on my leather couch watching football, I would rather use the $350, and buy a bunch of D'Ampuis, then spend a whole season worth of football on the couch.

They are called the three La-Las, La Moulinne, La Turque and La Landonne. They are single vineyard, or crus, and there are only about 1500 cases produced, which makes them pretty damn rare. They are produced only by Guigal, a producer once called by Robert Parker "the greatest winemaker in the world". Don't break the bank, Guigal sells 20-25 different wines, all just as delicious for a fraction of the price.

Pairing? Syrah is a peppery wine, thus any red meat will go. If you have any beef ribs, you should be in business, I like rosemary with it. Throw a steak on the grill, salt, pepper, if you have a little fresh rosemary sprinkle it on top. Then, if it's Sunday, settle on your favorite spot on the couch, pour yourself a glass, put the game on and ENJOY. Too bad this can't be an everyday occurance, because if I may quote a great man, "football and good wine, are a daily necessity for me". Thank God it's Sunday.

Next week, I will go to Washington state and try a little Pinot.

Grillo

So what is Grillo?
 I bet most of you never heard about this grape, and yet, ALL of you had it quite a few times. Grillo is  an "obscure" grape from Sicily, and like so many things coming out of Sicily (see Mario Puzzo), we know of, but we know nothing about. It has been around for so many years, that it used to be one of Julius Ceasar favourite grapes. In the last 50 or so years, it has been planted all over Sicily, thousands of acres of it. Still, I met a sommelier in NYC once, who told me he never heard of Grillo.
I call BULL! We all had it, in different dishes, even desserts. It's the grape they use to make Marsala wine, that sweet fortified wine used to make Chicken Marsala and zabaglione. It's been used undercover in kitchens all over US for decades, and yet nobody knows about it.
In the last couples of decades, the Sicilians realised that they can make money with Grillo. So they ripped all the poppy seed plantations and put Grillo instead. Most of it still goes in the production of Marsala, but a few producers, luckily bottled some of it.
Brilliant! If you are ever tired of chardonnay, but in the mood for an aromatic, full-bodied white wine, go the store and buy a bottle. If you find it, it will cost you around $12. Throw a few shrimp in a pan, little butter, some herbs, pour yourself a glass of Grillo and enjoy. It's "slap your mama" good. If you find a BYOB sushi restaurant bring a bottle with you, it's great with raw shellfish. The wine tastes like apricots, crisp lemons and herbs. Every time I drink it, I think of those outdoor little restaurants on the coast in southern Italy.
Last year, me and my then-future wife took a trip around Italy. One of our stops was in Messina, (don't ask me why, there really is no reason anybody should visit Messina), but we had lunch at a little restaurant overlooking the harbour. I don't remember what we ate, but I remember the bottle of Grillo, the breeze and the blue water below us. Now, that to me is a good liquid lunch.
Next week, back to France, Rhone this time with Cote Rotie.

Ripasso

Some of us still remember how a few years ago Valpolicella used to be that cheap stuff you bought in jugs. Restaurants used it for cooking, you could have not found one on a wine list, and most stores couldn't even spell it on their price tags. Oh, how times have changed! Most producers from the Veneto area offer one in their portofolios along old staples like Amarone.
Amarone della Valpolicella is a very complex wine made using three different grapes: Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. Italians like to take a lot of breaks, so after they pick the grapes, they lay them on straw mats outside and let them dry. Then, they open a bottle of wine, cut some cheese and prosciutto, get stuffed and take a long nap. Meanwhile the grapes dry up like raisins, which concentrates the sugars. A few days later, they squeeze the grapes and put the juice in barrels. After that, they open another bottle of wine, eat some truffles and take another long break.
The problem with Amarone is that it's very expensive. So, around 1968, they decided to start bottling Valpolicella. The difference is, that after they pick the grapes, they only have a couple of espressos, and get back to work squeezing the grapes. The wines are lighter, fruitier and they can be released after a few weeks just like a Beaujolais Nouveau. In most cases they are aged for around 9 months in barrels. But the wines are cheaper, and the owners couldn't get that new Vespa their neighbor had.
So, in traditional Italian enterprising spirit, they found a niche. Ripasso. Which literally means repassed. The skins left after the fermentation of Amarone, are  added to the  batch of Valpolicella juice. The fermentation boosts the alcohol level, adds body and complexity. The wines age longer then Valpolicella (in my cellar they don't have time to), are medium priced, so they are a great alternative to an expensive Amarone.
They became an official appellation only a couple of years ago,since it takes Italians a bit longer to get moving. Most restaurants carry at least one, in some cases you can even find them by the glass. In the stores, you should pay around $22-23 for the current vintage. Some online merchants offer older vintages, up to $30, and if you find a 1997, give me a call, I will be more then happy to help you drink it.
Pairing? If you are in Venetto, do what the Italians do. Prosciutto, aged cheese, maybe some truffles if they're in season. Then definitely take a nap. If you're home, throw a couple of lamb chops on the grill, open up a bottle, drink it, and THEN take a nap.
Next week, I'm going back to whites but staying in Italy. Grillo.

week 2

Pouilly Vinzelles

So, what is Pouilly Vinzelles? Well, here is an easy way to figure out burgundies: if it's white it is always chardonnay. and if it's red it's always pinot noir. That is pretty easy isn't it? That is the one and most important thing you need to know about burgundy. And people are afraid of them.
You know how afraid they are? I went to a store the other day (in Dallas), to buy a bottle of red burgundy. There were none on the shelf, so I asked the "wine expert" how come they don't sell any. He told me people don't buy french, because they can't figure them out. You are a f@#$ wine expert dude. You know what you are suppose to be doing? EXPLAIN IT TO THEM!!! My reaction was, why don't you put it on the shelf, and instead of selling it as marsannay or santennay or whatever it is, sell it as pinot noir. I guarantee you, that you will sell it, especially after somebody buys it, they will come back. Jeez, rocket science.
So, how do the french write their labels? According to the law, instead of them writing what kind of wine it's in the bottle (they are French after all, and they like to make things difficult for the rest of us), they write the appelation. In some cases that is the name of the village, in some cases the name of a parcel of land. One of the jewels of Burguny, Corton-Charlemagne it's a hill. The appelation of Pouilly Vinzelles is actually two villages (Vinzelles and Loche) together. Easier?
So, what is Pouilly Vinzelles? It is an amazing, $15 bottle of chardonnay. There are only about 120 acres of this appelation, so chances are you will not find it in every Costco out there. Which, if you ask me, it's a great thing. When you buy a bottle, try and see what you taste in it. If you taste peaches, you are already better than the "wine expert" mentioned above. It has been in stainless steel containers, so you will not taste any oak. It's aromatic and it has the roundness and fullness that you expect from a good burgundy.
Pairing? Whatever floats your boat. Whatever YOU like better. One of my good friends in New York, an accomplished master sommelier, recomends it with steak. And you thought cabernet is the way to go! I had it with steak, and you know what? The guy is right, amazing! Complements the beef just as well as a rounded, full bodied cabernet or bordeaux. Best part is, that if you overdo and have a couple of bottles (which I did plenty of times), you will not wake up the next day with a headache. Try that with KJ, you will be like the guy in the Advil commercial, two every four hours.
It finally cooled down in Dallas, so even though I don't agree with the old saying "hot weather white wine, cold weather, red wine", next week I will tell you about an Italian awesomeness: ripasso

Introduction

After working in New York City as a sommelier for over 13 years, I decided to move to Dallas, my wife's hometown. In the beginning it seemed like a great idea. Big house, pool, lots of space. After living in a NY shoebox for all this years it looked like a great idea. Glass of wine by the pool, steak on the grill, suburbia.

Then, I went to a wine shop. It all came crushing down. You know how they say that everything is bigger in Texas? Well, this was the biggest wine shop I have ever seen. As big as a Wal-Mart. And just like Wal-Mart, full of stuff that I don't understand who spends money on. I mean, only big brands. And by big brands, I mean KJ, Simi, Jam Jar, Beringer and a whole section of labels with yellow kangaroos. Why buy this stuff? And who in his right mind, buys it over and over again? Really people?

Here is my first suggestion: don't buy the same bottle of wine twice a year. I don't care how much you like your Menage a Trois, stay away from it. Why spend your money on stuff that sucks? You don't have to max your credit card on a good bottle of wine. I won't name it just yet, but my all time most favourite bottle of cabernet costs $13.99 on the shelf. Expand your horizon, try something new all the time, especially stuff you never heard of before. Here's an idea, try something you can't pronounce. Why not? You would be surprised how many "wine experts" can't pronounce some of the labels. After all, if you take a wine course they won't teach you a foreign language.

Try a rose. Five years ago, stores couldn't give this stuff away, and now they can't keep it on the shelf. One of my favourite stores in NYC carried 52 different roses. Best part was that only 6 of them were from Loire. Try an Italian one, or even Spanish or South American. Most of the time, they will be less expensive and better. I am not bashing the French, they are masters at this craft, in fact, my first suggestion will be French.

If you buy a bottle of Italian wine, please DON'T buy Chianti. Stay away from Rufino and Santa Margherita. Get something different. Try a Morelino, a Vino Nobile and hey! if it's a special occasion (like Tuesday night dinner), get a bottle of Sagrantino. i guarantee you that next time you see a bottle of Rufino, you will walk across the aisle.

Here is a good one! Lately, a lot of people in the industry use the term "boutique wine". Don't let that scare you, all it means is that is produced by a small winery who only makes a few thousand bottles. So you can't find it at Wal-Mart, because then it won't be "boutiquee" anymore.

On my next posting, I will introduce you to a white gem from Burgundy. Pouilly Vinzelles. So much for KJ chardonnay.