Sunday, October 16, 2011

Washington State Pinot Noir

A couple of weeks ago, I was checking out a website called Washington Wine Report, written by, I believe a guy named Sean Sullivan. According to Sean, there are a few different grapes that thrive in Washington State: Merlot, Riesling, Syrah and  Cabernet Sauvignon. He claims that Pinot Noir is an elusive grape in this state, because of the weather. To make his argument, he quotes one of the dumbest sources I heard of in the wine industry: the movie Sideways. Really Sean?! Really?

I do agree that Sideways changed the wine industry, it changed the way people look at wine, particularly Pinot Noir. For a while after the movie came out, everybody was drinking Pinot, the sales went crazy across the country. I don't agree with Mr. Sullivan when he claims there is no good Pinot coming out of this state. I have tried in the past a few different vintages from Okanogan Estate, you might want to get yourself some Sean. It is really amazing, silky, with one of the longest finishes I ever encountered in a West Coast Pinot. If I'm not mistaken, they even won a couple of medals for their Pinot in San Francisco. Syncline is another one that should make everybody's list.

Oregon does eclipse Washington State when it comes to Pinot Noir, but what fun would wine be if we only drink the stuff that's on every store shelf? As far as I'm concerned, wine should be about discovering new things, training your palate, finding what YOU like best about it, and not what you are told to. Sure, on the road there you are going to drink some bad wine as well, but you will become more comfortable drinking wine, talking about it, and why not? even suggest it. Sometimes you hear a lot of industry insiders, talking about soil and sun exposure, pebbles and God knows what else. Wine, should be fun, from learning about it to drinking it and not about listening to experts that tell you what to and what not to drink.

So Sean, do your homework man. I am sure, I make a lot of mistakes as well, but I will NOT disregard Washington State Pinot Noir.

Pairing? The wines are silky and smooth, with a long finish. They are fruity, but I find they have an almost Cabernet-like finish. I've had grilled pork chops with them, and I also had fresh pasta with porcini mushrooms. Or, pork chops with porcini. Why not?

If you find a bottle in a store, get it. I guarantee you will not regret it.

Next week Barolo. My all time favourite.

Sunday, October 9, 2011

Cote Rotie

After visiting Cote Rotie in 1787, Thomas Jefferson wrote: "Good wine is a daily necessity for me". Man, did the future third US president have it right. He traveled all over Europe, learning, tasting, discussing and  buying wine, but Cote Rotie is where he fell in love.

So, what is Cote Rotie? The words, literally mean "roasted slope", because of the multitudes of terraces, vertical slopes and their stone walls. The area, in northern Rhone, produces only red wines made with Syrah grapes. The law also allows up to 20% Viognier, a white grape used because it is very aromatic. Some producers use no Viognier, while others use the full 20% allowed. Hey, they are French, they have to be confusing!

Cote Rotie has two sub-regions, Cote Blonde and Cote Brune (gets even more complicated). The legend has it there were two sisters, one blonde and one brunette, in reality it actually has to do with the color of the soil, the Brune region having a much darker clay, making the wines fuller, containing more tannins and thus, being meant to age longer.

Buying a bottle of Cote Rotie, is where it gets trickier.The wines can range from $30 to $500, and I'm not even talking restaurant prices. Why the difference? Chateau D'Ampuis for example, should cost you anywhere from $26-27 to $35. La Moulinne $320-$350. I once had a chance to taste La Moulinne, and even though, it tasted as awesome as an afternoon on my leather couch watching football, I would rather use the $350, and buy a bunch of D'Ampuis, then spend a whole season worth of football on the couch.

They are called the three La-Las, La Moulinne, La Turque and La Landonne. They are single vineyard, or crus, and there are only about 1500 cases produced, which makes them pretty damn rare. They are produced only by Guigal, a producer once called by Robert Parker "the greatest winemaker in the world". Don't break the bank, Guigal sells 20-25 different wines, all just as delicious for a fraction of the price.

Pairing? Syrah is a peppery wine, thus any red meat will go. If you have any beef ribs, you should be in business, I like rosemary with it. Throw a steak on the grill, salt, pepper, if you have a little fresh rosemary sprinkle it on top. Then, if it's Sunday, settle on your favorite spot on the couch, pour yourself a glass, put the game on and ENJOY. Too bad this can't be an everyday occurance, because if I may quote a great man, "football and good wine, are a daily necessity for me". Thank God it's Sunday.

Next week, I will go to Washington state and try a little Pinot.

Sunday, October 2, 2011

Grillo

So what is Grillo?
 I bet most of you never heard about this grape, and yet, ALL of you had it quite a few times. Grillo is  an "obscure" grape from Sicily, and like so many things coming out of Sicily (see Mario Puzzo), we know of, but we know nothing about. It has been around for so many years, that it used to be one of Julius Ceasar favourite grapes. In the last 50 or so years, it has been planted all over Sicily, thousands of acres of it. Still, I met a sommelier in NYC once, who told me he never heard of Grillo.
I call BULL! We all had it, in different dishes, even desserts. It's the grape they use to make Marsala wine, that sweet fortified wine used to make Chicken Marsala and zabaglione. It's been used undercover in kitchens all over US for decades, and yet nobody knows about it.
In the last couples of decades, the Sicilians realised that they can make money with Grillo. So they ripped all the poppy seed plantations and put Grillo instead. Most of it still goes in the production of Marsala, but a few producers, luckily bottled some of it.
Brilliant! If you are ever tired of chardonnay, but in the mood for an aromatic, full-bodied white wine, go the store and buy a bottle. If you find it, it will cost you around $12. Throw a few shrimp in a pan, little butter, some herbs, pour yourself a glass of Grillo and enjoy. It's "slap your mama" good. If you find a BYOB sushi restaurant bring a bottle with you, it's great with raw shellfish. The wine tastes like apricots, crisp lemons and herbs. Every time I drink it, I think of those outdoor little restaurants on the coast in southern Italy.
Last year, me and my then-future wife took a trip around Italy. One of our stops was in Messina, (don't ask me why, there really is no reason anybody should visit Messina), but we had lunch at a little restaurant overlooking the harbour. I don't remember what we ate, but I remember the bottle of Grillo, the breeze and the blue water below us. Now, that to me is a good liquid lunch.
Next week, back to France, Rhone this time with Cote Rotie.