Sunday, January 29, 2012

I miss Burgundy

I started this blog when I first moved to Dallas. Out of boredom, and because after going to wine shops/grocery stores in the area, I was completely dumbfounded by their selections. Row after row, stack after stack of California wines, some Italian and South American and not one Burgundy or Bordeaux in sight. I am not bashing wines (yes I am)  from the west coast, but where is my Burgundy?
At my last job in NY, I was lucky enough to work with, what I think is one the best. Louis Latour. I even spent a week in Beaune, working my way through their cellars, drinking, tasting, pairing and learning about Burgundy. Don't take me wrong, there are some wines that I am not crazy about, but there are some that everybody should drink at least once. Special occasions or not. And I am not even talking about crazy expensive stuff like La Tache or Montrachet, bottles that go for hundreds and thousands of dollars, I'm talking about your $20-$30 bottle. I'm talking about Marsannay and Santenay and other gems that everybody should drink every once in a while. Put them on the shelf people, they will sell.
Marsannay is a village and NOT a grape, as I've said it before the grape is Pinot Noir. Like any good Pinot, they  have nice earthy aromas, and taste like berries and cherries. Beautiful ruby red colour, a little mineral, all around, just a really good bottle of wine.
Pairing? I don't remember what they served in Burgundy with it, but I'm sure there was a lot of duck and cheese around. I like pork with it, on the grill with a little char, maybe some sweet peas, definitely some garlic. Cheese? Who cares?
In the last couple of weeks, I went off course a little bit and did not speak about what I told you I will. What can I say, I miss my Burgundy, and as you can see I have a little anger towards wine shops in Dallas.

Sunday, January 22, 2012

75 degrees in Tx, so Sauvignon Blanc

Every posting I've had on this blog, ended with my following week's suggestion. According to my last posting, today I'm suppose to talk about Jam. But I've had a revelation.
As far as I'm concerned there are only three good things to come out of New Zealand: lamb chops, Lord of The Rings and All Blacks rugby. In the past I tasted a bunch of New Zealand wines, but  none of them made an impression on me. I've sold a bunch, pushed them to my clients, talked their ears off, but I never found one good enough to spend money on. Especially the high prices they go for nowadays. Until last night.
Since my wife got pregnant a few months ago, we only eat fish once a week. Last night, I bought a couple of pieces of cod, cooked them and then went through my wine collection looking for something to drink. Somehow, from one my tastings the week before a bottle of New Zealand sauvignon blanc made his way on my shelf. I am the only one drinking, so I figured: What the hell?! I don't wanna open something better, so I'll give it a shot.
Saint Clair Vicar's Choice Sauvignon Blanc is the bottle that set me straight about New Zealand wines. What a wake up call! I will never talk smack about them again. I don't know much about the producers, except that they are in Marlborough area and they are geniuses. The wine was not crazy mineral, which most wines from the region are, it tasted like grapefruit, blackcurrants and Granny Smith apples. I can honestly say, that I do not remember Sauvignon Blanc with a finish that long; I actually counted, and 20 seconds later I could still tasted it on my palate. Wow!!!
The wine is really not expensive, $15-$16 on the shelf. If you see it, buy it, you will not regret it. I've had $40 SBs from New Zealand that I hated.
Pairing? Fish. I cooked my cod with fresh tomatoes, onions, a lot of parsley and a squeeze of lemon, sort of like a marequiara sauce. The tomatoes complimented it, the lemon brought out the wine's acidity, the onions the sweetness, and the parsley I just happen to like a lot.
So, unless I find a bottle of Greek wine this week, that will change my mind about them, my next week's suggestion is gonna be Sophia Cabernet from Chile, one of my all-time favorites.

Sunday, January 15, 2012

Roco Pinot Noir

Solve this equation: Oregon+Hippie=Pinot Noir. What's he talking about? are you gonna say. I'm talking about this gem of a wine, Roco, made by this hippie guy, Rollin Soles, in Oregon. Ohh, now I get it, you're gonna say. You don't get it, not until you taste this wine anyway.
A lot of people have heard of Argyle wines, but few know that Rollin is the one credited with putting it on the map. I have had the chance of meeting and working with him, and when it comes to making wine, the man is a genius. He has made more 90+ wines than anybody else in Oregon. Together with his wife, Corby, he bought a piece of property in Willamette Valley and called it Witts End. You know the guy is passionate about his vineyard if you hear him talking about it. I spent about 8 hours with him, and he described every clump of dirt to me. In detail. Twice. 
Anyway, the wine. He doesn't make much. The property is only about 7 acres and in the beginning, he only made enough for himself and a few close friends, and called it Private Stash. Nowadays, he makes two wines, and some of it makes it to the market but if you can't find it, go to his website and order some. The wines are luscious, full and rich, they taste of berries, cinnamon and white pepper. They have a long almost creamy finish, the kind of finish you would expect from a really expensive red burgundy.
If you find it, it should cost you around $40, which after you taste the wine, you are gonna think was a deal. And pairing? You are gonna laugh, but grilled cheese. With blue cheese. Creamy, salty, bit moldy, compliments the acidity of the wine. Mmmmm.
Next week Jam. No, not Jam Jar, I said Jam.

Saturday, January 7, 2012

Saldo

Lots of people have asked me in the past how do I put up with all the tastings my job calls for. Now, in all honesty, I am not sure if "put up" is the right word for it, but I didn't know how to spell entice. You see, tastings are not what outside the business people imagine them to be. Sometimes, they start at 9am, and you have a hangover from the night before. Trust me 9 out of 10 times they are work and not pleasure. Plus, they use spittoons. Imagine that? Traveling for work, can sometimes be fun also, but God help you if you get back from an all-expenses paid trip to a winery, and you don't act like an Oompa Loompa right away, and focus the rest of your life on that one winery.
Another way to taste a whole new line at your own leisure is to change jobs. Or in my case relocate and change jobs. Most people in the industry change jobs based on salary, but some (in the long run, smart ones), do it based on portfolio. At my last job in New York, I had the chance of tasting (most cases enjoying) a really big French portfolio. When I moved to Dallas, I decided to pick a company with a crazy good American book. So, for the last three months, I have been working my way through their warehouse. And to my European trained palate's surprise I have found some big gems.
Saldo is one of them. What is Saldo? It is THE best zinfandel I have ever tasted. Made by David Phinney (who also makes Prisoner, another crazy good wine), of Orin Swift Cellars, Saldo wins points and accolades every year, from every magazine out there. He uses grapes from, pretty much all over California, but still manages to create an insane wine. Never met the guy, (wish I will, just to be able to say I shook his hand), but from what I hear he is a bit off the rocker himself. More power to him. If you check his website, it says "he is now developing his own vineyard for this project". I say, "Dave, leave it alone man! Others have tried to create a zin this good forever, if it's not broken, don't change it".
Open a bottle, and you will see what I'm blabbering about. There is no need to swirl, decant, light a fire, shoot a firecracker, or whatever it's "cool" to do to wine these days. The wine is ready, is luscious, it tastes like berries and plums, pepper and spice. Long finish, almost like a Port, oak and call me crazy, tobacco on the nose. It can be aged, but why? Drink it now, don't save it, I'm sure next year Dave will bottle another gem. 
Pairing? Beef. The bigger and bolder the better. T-bone on the grill, even a really good burger with a couple of slices of Vermont cheddar on it. And contrary to what I always preach about sharing wine with friends and family, not this time. Let them get their own. I am gonna eat my burger, drink it by MYSELF, have a cigar, then go try and explain my wife why she couldn't have any. At around $30, I think I might get another bottle.
I was told by another wine blogger, that I shouldn't tell you in advance what I'm gonna talk about next week. Supposedly, that's how you build a follower base, keep people in the air. Again, I call BULL. Next week Rocco Pinot Noir from Oregon. There, I said it.

Thursday, December 29, 2011

Bubbles...Again

After my last posting I had a couple of friends from the wine industry giving me hell. One of my Italian buddies wasn't very happy with the fact that I mentioned Prosecco briefly, and another (who's in the Burgundy business) asked me "dude, how about Cremant"? Get your own blog people!!!
I am only kidding, I take criticism well. Sometimes, just ask my wife. And I tip my hat when somebody corrects me with a valid argument. Cremant should be on everybody's list for the holiday. Made in Burgundy (hence the name Cremant de Bourgogne), it can be either white or rose and it varies from dry to sweet. Most Cremants are made using the traditional method of fermenting the wine in the bottle. There are about 6-7 types of grapes being used, but the only ones worth remembering are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. 
One of the best I've ever had is the Simmonet-Febvre Brut. I have had the chance to drink this amazing wine quite a few times, and quite a few different vintages, and they always put out great product. It is a 60-40 combination of the two grapes mentioned, and I swear you taste both when you have a glass. It is also quite inexpensive, as sparkling (good) wines go, it shouldn't cost you more than $20 in the store.
Pairing? Well, this is where it gets a little tricky. The wines don't need food accompaniment. I kind like to pop one before dinner, with some nosh. Peanuts, maybe some cheeses or outside on the deck just hanging out. It is one of those bottles that should teach you the wine is made to be enjoyed anytime and anywhere, and you should not be afraid of it.
And how about Prosecco? Here is a good (got me drunk quite a few times) cocktail recipe. We've all had a Mojito. Take some limes, mint and sugar muddle together. Than, instead of filling up with rum and club soda, use Prosecco. Fill the glass up, drink, burp, refill. Recipe for good times.
So, hopefully I am now back on the good side of my two criticizing, ball-busting friends. Happy New Year  everybody!

Sunday, December 18, 2011

Bubbles

So, New Year's Eve is fast approaching and you just got invited to a party. You want to bring a bottle of Champagne, but you don't want to shell out for a bottle of  DP, but you also don't wanna look cheap and show up with a bottle of Korbel. So what is one to do? And what exactly is Champagne? How do they put bubbles in the bottles?
Champagne is a wine region in northern France, and only wines from this region can be called Champagne. So, that crappy bottle of Chandon that costs about $6 at your local store is not a Champagne. It's just a cheap, disgusting imitation which few people know is actually made by Moet. There are three different grapes used in the production of Champagne, chardonnay, pinot meuniere and pinot noir. This delicious, sparkly drink is made using a method called Methode Champenoise. In a few words, here is what happens: first they squeeze the grapes, they let the juice fermentate.  Then, they blend the combination of the three juices, they bottle them (with a temporary metal cap) and in the course of a few weeks, slowly, they turn the bottles around until they are completely upside down. Why? Because, in the bottles there are sediments. Then, they sort of freeze the head of the bottle, they open the cap, and they let the gas inside the bottle blow the sediments out. Afterwards they cap it with the cork and wire we all know. Voila!!!
The pressure inside a bottle of Champagne is about 3 times higher than in a car tire. And that is why they use those thick, heavy, special shaped bottles. As you can imagine, the price of the actual bottle, combined with the price of producing the wine  is very high. So, when the price of a bottle of "champagne" is $6, should raise some eye brows.

One of my favorite Champagne I've ever had is Louis de Sacy. It is a medium body Grand Cru, with great fruity after tones. It is not expensive (as Champagne goes), should not run you more than 50 bucks or so. They also have a rose version, which when drank at the right temperature should remind you of the best date you have ever been on.
There are other, much less expensive options out there. The two most important ones are Cava and Prosecco. Not many years ago, these wines were impossible to find, most restaurants didn't carry them and most stores thought you were crazy if you asked about them. Now, they even have restaurants named after them, the Oak Room makes a Prosecco cocktail, and most stuck up sommeliers offer at least 10-15 of them.
Pairing? Never with desserts or cheeses. White fish, like a great, grilled piece of halibut, salt, pepper, nothing else. Or, if you have it, roasted pheasant. I have only had it once and my mouth still waters thinking about it.
And please! DO NOT stick a strawberry in your glass. Do that with Korbel, it won't matter what it tastes like.

Sunday, December 11, 2011

Bordeaux Whites&Sauternes

When somebody mentions the word Bordeaux, most of us automatically think red wine. But there is more in the region than Merlot and Cabernet. Or is there?
I know people up in New York, that when reading the above sentence, will get mad, text me and curse me in French. The funny part about it is that I won't know why they are mad. Is it because I said there is more to Bordeaux than reds, or because I seem to doubt that. If I manage to ever figure that out, i will be sure and let you guys know.
So, what is a white Bordeaux? I think there should be a couple different categories. First, you have the usual crisp, concentrated wine made with Sauvignon Blanc. Then, and this category should be first since it is frigging awesome, you have Sauternes.
Sauternes is a sweet wine made from a combination of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes. The unique thing about this wine is that the growers actually let the grapes rot on the vines. I am not going to bore you with how the rot happens, climate, fog and such, but I am going to tell you that if you never tried it, you are missing out. Big time.
Since Sauternes is made from shrunken grapes, it is very expensive to produce, and the wines are very expensive. The best, and most expensive is Chateau d'Yquem. They actually hold the record for the most expensive bottle of white wine ever sold, when an 1811 bottle sold for over $110.000.  Dior even  makes a skin cream from the d'Yquem grape skins.

What would you pair this amazing wine with? The best thing I can think of, is a really good chocolate cake, with a chocolate mousse topping and chocolate ganache (always wanted to use that word). There are other Sauternes out there, some of them quite affordable, but if you ever have a chance, especially if somebody else is footing the bill get a glass. You will not regret it.
And how about the rest of white Bordeaux wines? Who cares?
I think I spent enough time in Bordeaux and next week will be talking about Champagne. New Years Eve is fast approaching, damn this year went by fast.